Julien's Restorator (c. 1793–1823) was a restaurant in

Boston Boston (), officially the City of Boston, is the state capital and most populous city of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, as well as the cultural and financial center of the New England region of the United States. It is the 24th- mo ...

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, established by French-born Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat dis Julien.Andrew F. Smith, ed. The Oxford companion to American food and drink. Oxford University Press US, 2007; p.550 It was one of the first restaurants in Boston; previous public eating-rooms were in "taverns or boarding houses."

History

Julien moved to the United States "as cook to the celebrated Dubuque, who was a refugee from the French Revolution." Prior to 1793, Julien had served as "steward to the Hon. M. LeTombe, consul of the French Republic."Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), July 19, 1793 Other friends and associates included

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (; 1 April 1755, Belley, Ain – 2 February 1826, Paris) was a French lawyer and politician, who, as the author of ''The Physiology of Taste'' (''Physiologie du Goût''), gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: ...

. The Restorator opened in July 1793: "a resort where the infirm in health, the convalescent, and those whose attention to studious business occasions a lassitude of nature; can obtain the most suitable nourishment. ... Spirits are not to be used; ... and all gaming is disallowed. ... Excellent wines and cordials, good soups and broths, pastry in all its delicious variety, alamode beef, bacon, poultry, and generally, all other refreshing viands, will be kept in due preparation: and a bill of fare will be kept ... from which each visitor may command whatever may best suit his appetite." The business first stood on Congress Street "opposite the Quaker's meeting house" in the

Financial District A financial district is usually a central area in a city where financial services firms such as banks, insurance companies and other related finance corporations have their head offices. In major cities, financial districts are often home to s ...

, then in 1794 settled on Milk Street (corner of Congress St.) in "the house lately occupied by Mr. Thomas Clements."Boston Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), Aug. 21, 1794 The building had been erected in 1670-1671 by Henry Bridgham. Julien's was "agreeably situated to receive the fresh air -- which is so necessary for the convalescent and strangers." The establishment was referred to as "Julien's," the "Boston Restorator," "Mr. Julien's French Restorator," "Julien's Restorator," or "The Restorator." According to food historians Julien's "public eating house ... was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the Prince of Soups''.' He is credited with introducing to America the julienne soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making

turtle soup Turtle soup, also known as Terrapin soup, is a soup or stew made from the meat of turtles. Differing versions of the soup exist in some cultures and are viewed as a delicacy. Versions China In China, and in several countries in Southeast A ...

." Julien's advertisements for the soup emphasized medical justifications: "Turtle soup. Much has been said on its efficacy in purifying the blood by

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in his celebrated dissertation on the subject, and by Buffon, the great naturalist, who discovered the beneficial nature of amphibious animals. Those who use this soup must not expect that it be made strong with spice, but from ingredients clear and light." "Many celebrated physicians have recommended it. ... As the first establishment of a restorator in Paris was not for Epicurians -- but for the benefit of those invalids who stood in need of light substance, nourishing and strengthening to their stomacks, it was recommended for the purpose by the Academy in Paris. Citizens of the above description are invited to call and try the virtue of Julien's turtle soup."Boston Restorator: Turtle Soup. Boston Price-Current; Date: 06-29-1797 Julien stressed the healthiness of other items available to his patrons, such as "Naples cordials, syrup of vinegar, syrup of orgeat, and white Bourdeaux wine, all of which are calculated for strengthening and invigorating the system of nature during the heat of summer." The particulars of Julien's style of business and its inspiration to competitors resonated culturally, for example in a literary spoof in the ''New England Palladium'' newspaper, 1801:

In imitation of Mr. Julien, I mean to open a house of public entertainment, where every intellectual epicure may be gratified with his favourite dish. The moralist shall be feasted with ethics, the philologist with criticism, and the weak and delicate palates of beaus and ladies shall be indulged with remarks on dress and fashion. After the sumptuous repasts afforded by the ''
Tatler ''Tatler'' is a British magazine published by Condé Nast Publications focusing on fashion and lifestyle, as well as coverage of high society and politics. It is targeted towards the British upper-middle class and upper class, and those interes ...
'', ''Spectator'', ''Guardian'', ''Rambler'', &c. every succeeding candidate for public favour, in this province, must appear to disadvantage; nor have I the presumption to imagine, that I can produce any thing which can vie, in point of excellence, with the choice dishes of those able caterers. But as the situation and habits of the new world differ considerably from those of the old, if I should be so fortunate as to hit the taste of my customers, I shall have no mean opinion of my cookery. ...

Events that took place at the Restorator included a

July 4th Events Pre-1600 *362 BC – Battle of Mantinea: The Thebans, led by Epaminondas, defeated the Spartans. * 414 – Emperor Theodosius II, age 13, yields power to his older sister Aelia Pulcheria, who reigned as regent and proclaimed ...

dinner of the "officers of the first regiment" in 1798; and anniversary celebrations of the Boston Franklin Typographical Association, 1803–1805. Julien died in 1805, and was buried in the Central Burying Ground. His wife Hannah Julien continued at the Restorator through at least 1813. Around 1816 it was "continued under the management of a countryman of Mr. Julien," Frederick Rouillard, until 1823. The building was demolished in 1824, and in 1825 Edward H. Robbins built on the old site of the Restorator a multi-functional assembly space, Julien Hall, named in honor of the now-defunct restaurant.Caleb Snow. History of Boston, 3rd ed. 1838.

References

External links

Boston Athenaeum
1796 drawing by Samuel Dearborn of Milk St. and vicinity, depicting Julien's and other buildings {{coord, 42, 21, 23.5, N, 71, 3, 22.35, W, type:landmark_region:US-MA, display=title Buildings and structures completed in 1671 Demolished buildings and structures in Boston 1793 establishments in Massachusetts 1823 disestablishments in Massachusetts 18th century in Boston 19th century in Boston Restaurants in Boston Economic history of Boston Defunct restaurants in Boston Financial District, Boston Healthcare in Boston Restaurants established in 1793 Buildings and structures demolished in 1824

History

References

Further reading

External links